Soma: My little adventure (Sunday 6th Dec)

After a painstakingly boring Saturday in Kerewan (completely my own fault, as I could not seem to get myself motivated to do anything that went beyond napping or eating), I decided to visit Soma on the Sunday to see Angela, a fellow VSO volunteer. Apparently this journey was relatively simple: ride to Farafenni, take dirt road to a small ferry, cross the river and then a dirt road to Soma.   The day started bright and early with a tapalapa breakfast hunt. I eventually found some and sat down to wait for it to be made. While I waited a small girl sat next to me with her mother began staring intensely at me with a look that conveyed either utter excitement or pure fear. After much effort on my part to snap her out of this transfixed state (consisting of various greetings, hand waves and funny faces) I eventually had to give it up and set off for Farafenni. Soma is about 15km from Farafenni (7km to river, 1km across river and 7km the other side) and as it is about 60km to Farafenni from Kerewan I assumed that the first section of the journey would take the longest to drive. However, as soon as my bike left the tarmac and began to tackle the sandy gravel which, due to the ridges that had been formed by the sand, made it not unlike riding across endless sheets of corrugated iron- it became clear that the 7km to the ferry was going to be fun but by no means quick. Most of the time I ride with my front light on for two reasons. One, it helps other road users to see you and two; it aids your own vision when you are suddenly engulfed in a cloud of orange dust. The use of the light during the day for Gambians, on the other hand, seems completely ludicrous. I regularly get friendly reminders that my light is on and I should really turn it off. This can be anything from a couple of headlight flashes from a passing gelli gelli to a frantic wave and point from someone on the side of the road. I often respond with an equally friendly thumbs up to say thanks and then pretend to turn it off as I pass. It keeps me entertained on the journey if nothing else.   I finally arrive at the ferry port looking very orange. I slow down as I approach as I am not sure where I need to get my ticket. This issue is solved very quickly as a man suddenly starts yelling at me and pointing at the ticket booth that I have just passed. After purchasing the ticket and having a conversation about how great England is with the man behind the counter (he used to live in Birmingham) I boarded the ferry. I managed to avoid colliding with the numerous other people pushing past me although I almost ran into a guy who came out of nowhere waving his hands and shouting 'your light!'  After a short ferry crossing I emerge on the south bank and prepare myself for a bumpy ride. I headed out onto the dusty road ahead while noticing a man to my left who seemed to be opening and closing his hands in front of his face as if his life depended on it… strange… oh! My light! Thank you! So I eventually rolled into Soma and waited for Angela to meet me at the petrol station. While I was waiting a man rode up to me on a bicycle and promptly produced a bank note, waving it in a determined fashion under my nose. "Is it European? From Europe?" After close inspection my guess was Russian and an antique at that! We agreed that he could probably convince someone it was from Europe and he went away happy. Angela turned up and we went to have beef domoda for lunch. We went to visit her house which was filled to the brim with home-made Christmas decorations. As well as the decorations, we were also greeted with a suspect smell. After much searching we came to the conclusion that something had died in the roof. Poor Angela- she had spent ages cleaning the place ready for some visitors coming that evening and now the place smelt of a dead badger's flip-flop. Before I knew it I was back on the dusty road heading back to Kerewan. I stopped in Farafenni for a fanta (chatted to a guy who knew about a cool jazz festival in Senegal) and finally turned into my compound in Kerewan, almost asleep, just before it got dark.  I then spent the evening sat outside with Ide (my landlord's brother) and his friends drinking attaya. Ate at my landlord's house while watching Senegalese music videos until I couldn't keep my eyes open any longer, made my excuses and went to bed. I slept very well that night.